Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Like Ketchup, But Better

I like to think of this DIY condiment as being to ketchup what Avatar is to 2-D movies. (Of course, I haven't seen Avatar, because I always have to be different -- hell, I never even saw Titanic -- but that's beside the point. It's an analogy, people.) Basically, it's a roasted tomato relish with a rich tomato flavor and a hint of sweetness. You know, like ketchup, but better. (Hence the title of this post. Come on, try to keep up.) It can be used as anything from a sandwich spread to a sauce for fish (more suggestions below, under the jump).

This is a great way to use up tomatoes from your garden, or ones that are starting to get squishy. If your market has a section of discounted-because-it's-about-to-go-bad produce, this is a perfect opportunity to utilize it. If you've got options, plum tomatoes (the oval kind) might be best for this, but obviously, since I just told you to go ahead and use tomatoes that are about to go bad, we're not going to be too particular here.

Line a baking sheet with tinfoil and preheat the oven to 400°. (For a smaller batch of relish, you can use the toaster oven.)

Using a paring knife, score an X at the top of each tomato, as shown at left. (I'd say to use 4 to 6, depending on size.) This makes it easier -- well, possible, really -- to peel the tomatoes once they have roasted.

Peel a small to medium-size red onion, and chop it in half (for the small) or quarters (medium).

Toss the tomatoes, onions, and -- optionally -- 2 or 3 jalapeno peppers on the baking sheet with a drizzle of olive oil and a sprinkling of kosher or sea salt and pepper.

Slice the top off a head of garlic. Put the garlic on a square of tinfoil large enough to wrap entirely around it, drizzle a little olive oil on the exposed cloves, sprinkle salt and pepper, and wrap the foil around it to cover. Add this to the baking sheet.

Roast until the onion is very soft, the garlic feels mushy when you press it firmly, and the tomatoes and jalapenos are wrinkly and darkened in spots. This will probably take 20-30 minutes.

Put the onion in a food processor (or a bowl if you have an immersion blender) and sprinkle a teaspoon or two of brown sugar on it (you want to do this while it's still warm, so it melts).

Let the garlic and tomatoes cool enough to touch them, then grip the base of the garlic bulb and squeeze so the roasted cloves ooze out into the food processor/bowl. (I find this tremendously pleasurable.)

Peel the tomatoes and squeeze them over the sink/garbage to get rid of the seeds/juice. Peel the jalapenos and remove the seeds and stems. Add to the onion mixture.

Add a drizzle of olive oil.

Pulse the mix in the food processor, or jeuje it (yes, I know that's not a real word) with the immersion blender, until it has a pureed consistency (or you can keep it a little chunkier if you prefer). Taste it and add more salt, pepper, olive oil, and/or brown sugar as needed.

This will keep for a couple weeks in a jar in the fridge, or freezes really well in Tupperware. It can be reheated or served at room temperature or cold. Here, as promised, are some more serving suggestions:

  • Brush on pork chops, ribs, or chicken pieces before cooking, reserving some to use as sauce
  • Mix with sautéed ground beef and ground cumin to make a filling for tacos
  • Add balsamic vinegar and more olive oil to make a salad dressing
  • Toss with pasta (I'm thinking penne), Greek olives, and grated Parmesan
  • Spread on toasted French bread slices with chopped basil and fresh mozzarella slices, for a variation on bruschetta
  • Mix with sour cream to make a dip for crudités
  • Put on a burger, duh. Seriously, did you really not read the title of this post?

    If you make this recipe and come up with a different way to use it, please share in the comments!
  • 6 comments:

    1. ooh, i LOVE this recipe, and i am a HUGE fan of the discounted-because-it's-about-to-go-bad produce section of the grocery store!

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    2. It is a tradition in my family! We always refer to it as "Reduced for Quick Sale" but I wanted to make sure our readers saw through the euphemism, heh.

      My mom is the queen of RFQS - when I was home this weekend, she was roasting peppers that she had bought just b/c they were RFQS. The peppers do not fall far from the plant ;)

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    3. Mantrap + Kitty = Delicious Condiment

      Nice blog yo!

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    4. Thanks John! I've always wanted to be one half of a delicious condiment.

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    5. love the post, love the blog, but if i may....

      HOW DARE YOU SAY ANYTHING IS BETTER THAN KETCHUP.

      from a malcom gladwell article i read six years ago that i still cite when defending my favorite condiment:

      There are five known fundamental tastes in the human palate: salty, sweet, sour, bitter, and umami. Umami is the proteiny, full-bodied taste of chicken soup, or cured meat, or fish stock, or aged cheese, or mother's milk, or soy sauce, or mushrooms, or seaweed, or cooked tomato. "Umami adds body," Gary Beauchamp, who heads the Monell Chemical Senses Center, in Philadelphia, says. "If you add it to a soup, it makes the soup seem like it's thicker—it gives it sensory heft. It turns a soup from salt water into a food." When Heinz moved to ripe tomatoes and increased the percentage of tomato solids, he made ketchup, first and foremost, a potent source of umami. Then he dramatically increased the concentration of vinegar, so that his ketchup had twice the acidity of most other ketchups; now ketchup was sour, another of the fundamental tastes. The post-benzoate ketchups also doubled the concentration of sugar—so now ketchup was also sweet—and all along ketchup had been salty and bitter. These are not trivial issues. Give a baby soup, and then soup with MSG (an amino-acid salt that is pure umami), and the baby will go back for the MSG soup every time, the same way a baby will always prefer water with sugar to water alone. Salt and sugar and umami are primal signals about the food we are eating—about how dense it is in calories, for example, or, in the case of umami, about the presence of proteins and amino acids. What Heinz had done was come up with a condiment that pushed all five of these primal buttons. The taste of Heinz's ketchup began at the tip of the tongue, where our receptors for sweet and salty first appear, moved along the sides, where sour notes seem the strongest, then hit the back of the tongue, for umami and bitter, in one long crescendo. How many things in the supermarket run the sensory spectrum like this?
      http://www.gladwell.com/2004/2004_09_06_a_ketchup.html

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    6. Well, well, well, look at Miss Can't-Cook-a-Chicken throwing around scholarly articles about Umami ;) I personally qustion the integrity of anyone who does experiments feeding babies MSG!!! Hee hee...

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